An ascent on Durmitor

Being with my younger brother Kimon in Dubrovnik in Croatia for a business conference, was an excellent chance to drive over to the mountainous town Zabljac in neighbouring Montenegro for a couple of days and see the notorious Durmitor 2525m by first hand.

Having collected as much data possible from internet and other mountaineers that have already been there, we set off for Zabljak. A long 400km drive due to all curvy and slingy roads through steep coastlines, endless hills and furtivurous valleys. The countryside undeveloped in a charming way, remind us the past.

We started our day next morning early and in optimistic sunshine. Arriving on the mountain pass though were the path began, strong winds and heavy clouds made us a bit more sceptic. Let’s start anyhow since we are here, we agreed, and we’ll see for how far we will make it.

The path was excellently marked and there were absolutely no other people on the mountain that day. Completely quiet and remote, without any other footprints but from the local fauna. Small blue lake and peaks like sharp spires.

The higher up we got the more snow fields we had to deal with. A bit more than I actually expected and especially at the summit’s steep and exposed couloirs and passes that were partially ice covered, made us a bit nervous, lacking crampons and ropes, moving together only with a superlight ski touring ice axe for both.

And just when I thought the we reached the top, the clouds lightened up a bit, just to see the we were not on the right one…

We never reached the actual summit just for a few meters. But climbing up to that point on that mountain with my brother meant a lot more to me… Already looking forward our new climb!


/ Elias


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